Sardinata’s long trek towards sustainable tourism begins at the base of the Cerro del Indio mountain range. As my 4×4 grinds its way through potholes the size of craters, the small town recedes into the distance, with a beige-colored church standing as the sole landmark amid a valley bursting with yellow trumpet trees.
Tucked away in northeast Colombia, at the gateway to the majestic Catatumbo mountain range, Sardinata remains a mystery to most travelers. The region, part of the department of Norte de Santander, has been overshadowed by security concerns and its challenging access, only reachable overland from Cúcuta.
However, frequent flights from Bogotá to the departmental capital and its modern Camilo Daza Airport mean visitors can arrive in under two hours, ready to explore a region recently declared the first official tourism zone in the department. Although sustainable tourism may seem like a distant dream for Sardinata’s 12,000 residents, Mayoress Diomara Montañez Peñaranda is determined to put her town on the tourism map in a post-conflict Colombia.
One of Sardinata’s most treasured attractions isn’t found in official guides: the hospitality of its people. Welcomed as if I were a local coal miner (the area’s main source of revenue), a farmer, or tradesman, a walk through the sunlit central market reveals the town’s rich cultural tapestry. Plantains, coconuts, and pineapples from the coast share counter space with the region’s salted meats, fish, and sacks of coffee.
Ascending the town’s outskirts along a trail once used by the indigenous Chitarerro peoples, we encounter an elaborate stone footpath reminiscent of the Inca trail in Peru. This intricate ancestral path leads to the Enchanted Lagoon, a sacred Chitarerro site where legend speaks of golden ducks surfacing from its murky depths.
These ancient trails are dotted with archaeological sites that offer glimpses into the region’s storied past. The path also leads to the Cueva del Indio Chitarerro, a significant yet almost inaccessible site due to rugged terrain and its vertiginous entrance. Alexis Prada, a local entrepreneur, is pioneering glamping in the region, allowing visitors to enjoy the trails without the rush to return to town by nightfall. I spent an unforgettable night in one of Mr. Prada’s futuristic pods, with a roaring fire and storm clouds gathering over the Catatumbo.
One of Sardinata’s natural wonders, Pailitas, is a gorge sculpted from black granite rock. Here, natural pools have formed over millennia, offering perfect spots for a refreshing soak after a day of hiking. These crystal-clear waters make Pailitas a must-visit.
On the road connecting Sardinata to Pailitas, the Pozo Azufrada offers another natural spa experience with its sulfur-rich, shallow river, inviting both locals and visitors for a swim.
Sardinata’s deep spiritual roots come alive in July during the “fiestas patronales” in honor of the Virgen del Carmen, patroness of drivers and transporters. Traditional parades, dances in the central square, and a religious procession to the Cave of the Virgin just outside town mark this festive time.
A visit to La Victoria, a township clinging to a mountaintop and surrounded by rugged peaks, reveals the resilience of Sardinata. The site of a brutal FARC attack on April 27, 1991, La Victoria stands as a testament to survival and rebirth. The ruins of the police post, once a battleground, now serve as a storage and roasting facility for ASOCAFEVIC, a local coffee cooperative.
Despite three decades of relative peace, the scars of the past are etched into the landscape of La Victoria, making it a poignant stop on any journey through the region.
For those seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure, Sardinata offers a rare opportunity to connect with Colombia’s cultural and natural heritage. Whether hiking ancient trails, exploring sacred caves, or soaking in natural pools, visitors will leave with a deep appreciation for this hidden gem at the gateway to the Catatumbo.
This article was made possible thanks to an invitation by FONTUR and the Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Tourism.
