I crossed my first bridge at dawn, leaving Honda’s historic district for the commercial zone on the other side of the Gualí River, and after replenishing some supplies, I returned to the cobblestone plazoleta San Francisco, along another bridge, with the same river, but with a different view of how this narrow estuary joins the majestic Magdalena River.
Nestled at the confluence of three waterways – Gualí, Guarinó, and Magdalena – the town of Honda is a hidden gem that promises a captivating journey through Colombia’s rich history and vibrant culture. Often overshadowed by more renowned destinations, this enchanting town delivers an authentic Colombian escape, from its foods and fiestas to deep historical ties.
Known as “The City of Bridges,” Honda’s impressive collection, 40 to be precise, showcases diverse architectural styles from simple stone to intricate iron masterpieces. The Navarro Bridge, constructed in 1899, is a testament to Honda’s pioneering spirit as the first iron bridge in South America. Its iron and steel structure was fabricated by the San Francisco Bridge Company of New York, the same company that built the Golden Gate Bridge.
The iconic yellow bridge spans 167 meters in length, is 5 meters wide, and 18 meters high. It stands at the head of the “rapids” of the Magdalena River, known as the “Salto de Honda.” Declared a national monument, the Navarro Bridge symbolizes the town’s connectivity and its pivotal role in Colombia’s maritime history.
Another significant bridge is the Luis Ignacio Andrade Bridge, the Puente del Carmen. Built by engineers Cayo Antonio Mazorra and E. Santos Potess, it extends 260 meters and was inaugurated in 1952 during the presidency of Dr. Mariano Ospina Pérez. Named in honor of Dr. Luis Ignacio Andrade, a prominent government minister and politician of the era, this bridge is a landmark of engineering and political history.
The longest bridge in Honda, Puente López, was initially known as the Puente de San Francisco. The original bridge, dating back to the colonial era, was constructed from Calicanto and is featured on the town’s coat of arms. Destroyed by the 1805 earthquake and replaced by a wooden structure that collapsed in 1902, Puente López remains a symbol of Honda’s enduring spirit.
In the 19th Century, Honda’s strategic location along the Magdalena River transformed it into one of Colombia’s most vital trading posts. It was the last navigable port for boats heading south, facilitating the movement of goods from the Caribbean port of Barranquilla to the interior regions. Steamboats, laden with textiles, machinery, and other imports, docked at Honda, where goods were then hauled to Bogotá by mule.
This bustling trade hub fueled Honda’s growth and played a crucial role in the colonization of Colombia’s coffee region. To delve deeper into the town’s historical significance, a visit to the Museo Río Magdalena, under the helm of German Ferro, is essential.
Honda’s well-preserved architecture tells the story of its storied past. The cobbled streets of the old quarter are lined with colonial and Republican-era buildings. Among the most well-preserved is Calle Las Trampas. The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Rosary, with its pristine white façade and ornate interior, stands as a majestic example of colonial architecture, inviting reflection on the town’s spiritual heritage. Equally impressive is the Church of San Francisco, dating back to the 17th Century, which features a tranquil courtyard.
At the heart of Honda lies its vibrant Mercado Central. With its white façade and 148 Corinthian columns, the market is a visual feast, where locals buy and sell fresh produce, handmade crafts, and various goods. The vibrant colors of tropical fruits, the aroma of freshly ground coffee, and the lively banter of vendors create an immersive cultural experience. Make sure to try one of the market’s delicacies – the tamal tolimense.
A visit to Honda would be incomplete without exploring the Trilladora Gualí. Once a bustling coffee depositor perched over the Magdalena, this historic building has been transformed into a vibrant cultural space hosting art exhibitions, cultural events, and community gatherings, celebrating Honda’s genteel heritage while adapting to contemporary gatherings. The Trilladora is also a good starting point to walk the boardwalk next to the imposing waterway.
The Teatro Unión stands as an impressive symbol of Honda’s cultural and artistic heritage. This historic theater from the 1920s, with its stone façade and details from the Golden Age of silent film, continues to be a central venue for performances, movies, and cultural events.
Another notable landmark is the Farmacia Nueva Arturo Cerón, one of the first pharmacies in Colombia’s interior. Established in the early 20th Century, it served the medical needs of the local population and muleteers traversing the central Andes range. Today, it symbolizes Honda’s commitment to community well-being and historical continuity.
Walking through Honda, one cannot help but feel a profound connection to the past. The town’s bridges, historical buildings, and central market each tell a story of resilience and continuity. Honda beautifully preserves its rich heritage while embracing modernity, making it a destination that appeals to history buffs, architecture enthusiasts, and curious travelers alike.
Honda may not boast the fame of Cartagena or Bogotá, but its unique charm and historical significance make it a hidden gem worth discovering. The town’s timeless beauty and cultural richness offer a profound and immersive travel experience. So, when planning your next trip to Colombia, be sure to include Honda in your itinerary. It’s a journey through time and history that promises to leave an indelible mark on your Colombia experience.
