Tópaga. The mere mention of this town references the Muisca civilization and the territory’s top cacique – Topa. When the Spanish conquistadores of the 16th Century reached this ancient settlement on a high-altitude plain in what is today Eastern Boyacá, Topa’s penchant for gold ultimately led to his demise. Given the town’s strategic location as a trading post with the Duitama and Guane peoples, one of the most revered leaders of the Muisca handed over his “El Dorado” to the bloodthirsty colonizers.
But remnants of the Muisca remain as petroglyphs carved into giant boulders along the nearby Gámeza river, many still preserving their original natural dyes.
This small yet historically rich mining town offers visitors an intriguing blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and artistic wonders.
From its critical role during the Spanish conquest to the 1819 Independence campaign led by Simón Bolívar, Tópaga remains a historically rich town that offers visitors an intriguing blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and artistic wonders. Visitors interested in the town’s coal mining legacy will feel close to the literary landscape of Welsh poet Dylan Thomas (1914-1953) but “raging against the dying of light” at 2,900 meters above sea level.
“Do not go gentle into that good night, Old age should burn and rave at close of day; Rage, rage against the dying of the light.”
– Dylan Thomas
July 11, 1819, witnessed one of the most decisive battles of the Independence campaign after Simón Bolívar and Colonel James Rooke of the British Legion descended from the Páramo de Pisba to find refuge in a small mill on the outskirts of Tópaga. Known as the Battle of Las Peñas or Molinos de Tópaga, this confrontation saw the Republican Army inflict significant losses on the Spanish Royalists. The bravery and sacrifices of Tópaga’s people contributed to Bolívar’s and Colonel Rooke’s determination to advance toward the Pantano de Vargas and Puente de Boyacá, battles that sealed the fate of Spanish colonial rule in New Granada.
One of Tópaga’s most captivating attractions is the Church of the Immaculate Conception, declared a National Monument in 1965. This stone edifice, built by Jesuit missionaries in 1632, is a testament to the artistic and cultural fusion that defines the town. Its exterior may appear modest, but stepping inside reveals a world of opulent artistry. The interior is adorned with intricately gilded altarpieces in Baroque style, with the centerpiece being the famous “Altar of Mirrors.” These mirrors, highly prized by the indigenous people, add a mystical aura to the sacred space, mesmerizing visitors with their ethereal beauty.
The temple’s decor extends beyond the mirrors. The main arch is richly decorated with angels, regional fruits, and intricate designs, including a wood carving of the Devil, strategically placed to instill a sense of fear and reverence among the indigenous converts.
This carving is a powerful reminder of the religious and cultural transformation that occurred during the colonial period. The church also houses religious artworks by Gregorio Vásquez de Arce y Ceballos and the Spanish artist Tomás Roldán (1652-1706), among other masterpieces.
Beyond its historical and religious significance, Tópaga is renowned for its artisanal craftsmanship. The town is internationally recognized for its coal carvings, a unique form of art practiced by local artisans of the Crecer Ltda Cooperative. These exquisite sculptures, depicting local mining iconography, make for unique souvenirs and represent the town’s rich mining heritage.
Tópaga’s cultural vibrancy is also reflected in its festivals. The town’s patron, Saint Jude Thaddeus, is celebrated with great fervor in February and October. These festivities are an excellent opportunity for visitors to immerse themselves in local traditions, music, and cuisine, experiencing the town’s warm hospitality firsthand.
For those looking to explore beyond the town’s historical and artistic sites, Tópaga offers stunning natural landscapes. The nearby Páramo de Ocetá is a high-altitude ecosystem known for its unique flora, including towering frailejón – espeletia – plants. Hiking through this area provides breathtaking views and a chance to connect with nature in its purest form.
Tópaga offers a rich tapestry of history, culture, and natural beauty. Whether you’re a history buff, an art enthusiast, or simply looking for a serene escape, this charming town in Boyacá has something to offer. Its incredible church, with its gold leaf altars, evocative carving of the Devil, and mesmerizing mirrors, combined with its pivotal role in Colombia’s fight for independence, make Tópaga a must-visit on any traveler’s itinerary.
To visit this unique destination contact on IG the very reliable and informed local tour operators: @rociotuguianatural and @kiwidelparamo.
The trip to Tópaga was made possible thanks to an invitation by Fontur, the Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Tourism (MINCIT) and Secretary of Tourism of Boyacá.
