Quibdó rises from the Atrato River like a grey pearl pinned against a menacing sky. It’s the rainy season, and the department’s largest river wrestles with the wind from a gathering storm. The elongated canoes on the majestic waterway point their tips towards the stone slabs of the dock, like glistening swords in a theatre of water and light. Some in the human cargo sit under umbrellas to shield themselves from the first curtains of rain.
The bustling capital of Chocó is home to 120,000 residents, the majority of Afro-Colombian descent. Given its proximity to the departmental capital of Antioquia, Medellín, it has become an important commercial outpost for paisas to sell goods from the interior – essential items for any household in the rainforest: refrigerators, electric fans, outboard engines, and construction materials.
Hemmed in by exuberant rainforest where the Río Quito merges with the Atrato, before amplifying the water flow to the region known as the “lower Atrato,” Quibdó’s most recognizable landmark is the San Francisco de Asís Cathedral. Completed in 1977 in honor of the city’s patron saint, “San Pacho” is indelibly linked to the early origins of this colonial outpost, when Franciscan missionaries first settled here on land gifted by the Embera people. While the 17th-century settlement was destroyed by warring tribes, it was rebuilt by Jesuits. Since then, Quibdó has grown into a vibrant center of Afro-Colombian culture and tradition.
The interior of the Cathedral is adorned with a beautiful wooden statue of Saint Francis and a mural by artist Maxi Lío Barreco, depicting the journey of missionaries through Chocó. The cathedral remains a place of worship and spiritual hub for the community, reflecting Quindó’s commitment to spiritual devotion.
Every year during the month of September, this devotion is on full display during the San Pacho Festival, when Saint Francis of Assisi makes his symbolic journey on the Río Atrato. Recognized by UNESCO as part of the world’s Intangible Cultural Heritage, San Pacho is a month-long celebration that starts with processions, live music, and joyful dancing in the streets. From vibrant colors that splash the city’s streets to food tastings inside the old market -Plaza de Mercado – even when “San Pacho” leaves the Atrato for another year, visitors can still enjoy a market where much of the produce that is cultivated in the litoral makes it to the table, including the region’s exotic and potent aphrodisiac – borojó.
One of the city’s most iconic structures is the Claretian Convent, known locally as the Episcopal Palace. Built in 1931, this elegant building is a masterpiece of republican architecture, featuring neoclassical columns, intricate arches, and Moorish-inspired ornamentation that reflect the diverse cultural influences in Quibdó. Overlooking the Atrato River at the northern end of the riverside promenade, the convent was designed by architect Luis Llach Langostera and completed by Claretian missionaries in 1943. Today, it stands as both a cultural and historical landmark, bearing witness to Quibdó’s past while serving as a communal space for reconciliation.
The convent also houses a special chapel that has become a significant center for commemorating the victims of Colombia’s internal conflict. This initiative, led by the Diocese of Quibdó, seeks to create a memory center that honors the resilience of Chocó’s communities. The convent’s southern chapel has evolved into a space for reflection and remembrance, serving as a powerful reminder of the region’s ongoing journey toward peace.
Quibdó’s riverside promenade is a gathering place for locals and visitors alike, offering stunning views of the Atrato River as it winds through one of the world’s most biodiverse regions. Walking along the malecón, one can soak in the beauty of the river, the gentle rhythm of the water complemented by the hum of city life. Along the promenade, vendors sell tropical fruits, refreshing beverages, and sugary coconut biscuits known as cocadas. With panoramic views of riverboats darting for position near the port, the malecón embodies the vibrant energy and warmth of Quibdó.
Guided river trips can be organized at the dock, allowing visitors to explore the surrounding estuaries of the Atrato. It’s an ideal destination for nature lovers and adventure-seekers looking to experience Chocó’s immense beauty without venturing too deep into the country’s Pacific region.
With its UNESCO-listed San Pacho Festival and a blend of neo-republican and neo-gothic architecture, Quibdó is more than a destination – it’s an immersion into what makes Chocó such an endearing yet often unseen territory within Colombia. From Bogotá there are several flights everday with Clic and Satena. From Medellín, both regional airlines also connect the departmental capitals with flights under 30-minutes. From Quibdó one can also fly direct to the Chocó’s coastal destinations of Nuquí and Bahía Solano.
The trip to Quibdó mas made possible thanks to an invitation from FONTUR and the Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Tourism – MINCIT.
