Nestled on a ridge with mesmerizing views of canyons and the craggy peaks of the Eastern Andes, Pisba appears suspended in a delicate balance of time and place, where the spirit of adventure merges with the rugged beauty of nature. As one of the four municipalities in the Provincia de la Libertad, Pisba’s allure lies not only in its picturesque landscapes but also in the challenge of reaching it.
Named “La Libertad” in honor of the historic route traversed by the indomitable Liberator Simón Bolívar in 1819, Pisba stands as a testament to Colombia’s rich tapestry of history and geography. Bolívar’s epic journey from the Eastern plains to the Andean highlands resonates in the very soul of this town, where every path whispers tales of resilience and the quest for freedom.
To reach Pisba is to embark on a pilgrimage of discovery, where every twist and turn in the road reveals the diversity of Colombia’s landscapes, from cold high-altitude wetlands to cloud forests, brushlands, and lush tropical plateaus. Despite the bustling capital of Casanare, Yopal, being only two hours away, our journey begins in the agricultural heartland of Boyacá, at Sogamoso.
Over the next five hours, we traverse the Páramo de Pisba and descend towards the Eastern Plains through verdant valleys and the roaring canyon of the Cravo Norte River. A brief stop in Labranzagrande offers an opportunity to explore a small community that contributed to Bolívar’s Independence struggle, boasting one of its native sons, spear-thrower and wild horseman Valentín García.
But it is not just the destination that beckons travelers to Pisba; it is the journey itself. As you navigate the mountain roads and traverse a terrain that immortalized Bolívar’s trek through the Andes, each moment serves as a testament to the indomitable spirit of exploration. Whether you arrive by car (4×4 recommended) or bus, the journey to Pisba is an adventure in its own right, weaving a tapestry of memories that will linger long after you depart.
In Pisba, time seems to stand still, allowing travelers to immerse themselves in the tranquility of the natural world. Here, amidst the towering cliffs and cascading waterfalls, one can’t help but feel a sense of awe and wonder at the beauty of a town that locals consider their “paradise on earth.” With a population of 1,300 inhabitants, chances are you’ll encounter many of the town’s folk during an easy stroll through the central square, or in front of the Marian Shrine to Our Lady of the Rosary of Pisba, or at “Mi Ranchito,” where locals enjoy traditional foods.
For the avid hiker and photography enthusiast, there are plenty of trails to explore, especially one that winds its way from the town’s entrance to the Santuario del Café (Coffee Sanctuary). After savoring a hot cup of the Castilla blend, served by local harvester Ana de Dios, the trail leads to a spectacular gorge, bordered by towering Higuerón trees, many of which predate Colombia’s independence. At the bottom of the ridge, a bridge that once served muleteers on their path through the Andes offers visitors incredible views of Pisba’s natural setting.
Making this year’s coveted ranking of the “Most Beautiful Towns in Boyacá,” for the residents of Pisba, tourism is their new passion, given that the municipality was significantly impacted by the internal armed conflict. As a part of ZOMAC (abbreviation in Spanish for “Zonas Más Afectadas por el Conflicto Armado” (Zones Most Affected by the Armed Conflict), Pisba is the recipient of development projects, infrastructure improvements, and agricultural programs aimed to support victims of the armed conflict.
There are ongoing efforts to promote reconciliation and peacebuilding in the zone, with the support of the Colombia’s tourism promotion fund, Fontur. With ongoing efforts at a local and national level to bridge social and economic inequalities, the people of Pisba are incredibly grateful to outsiders who show an interest in their unique handicrafts (of which there are many), and beautiful murals that tribute the region’s biodiversity. From its indigenous past to early settlement by Jesuit priests, and a pivotal role in the history of the country, Pisba’s greatest legacy is having hosted on the night of July 1, 1819,Liberator Simón Bolívar. But Bolívar was not alone.
Accompanied by the wild horsemen from the Eastern Plains – Lanceros – and the commander of the British Legion, Colonel James Rooke, it was in Pisba that a critical decision was forged. Bolívar has to either risk the perilous route into the high Andes and defeat the Spanish Royalist Army or turn back given the Eastern Plains. Facing near-impenetrable mountain passes and below-freezing temperatures of the Páramo de Pisba, the house where the fateful decision was taken still stands, and now local corner store and watering hole. Visitors to Pisba can enter the room where the Liberator spent the night and sign the Colombian flag that covers his bed.
Amidst whispers of history and echoes of Bolívar’s footsteps, visitors not only discover a town, but a tapestry woven with courage, resilience, and hospitality. As the sun sets behind the craggy peaks of the Andes, casting a golden glow upon Pisba’s tranquil streets, one can’t help but feel the weight of history and promise of a brighter tomorrow. Hopefully, with the arrival of sustainable tourism, this town’s timeless tale can be shared with the world.
This trip was made possible thanks to an invitation by the Boyacá Tourism Secretariat and Fontur. #ColombiaElPaísDeLaBelleza
