Nestled within the verdant embrace of Boyacá’s picturesque landscapes lies Tibasosa, a colonial town steeped in history, culture, and a unique culinary delight. Visitors to this ancient settlement of the Muisca, ruled by the high priest Iraca, can still find traces of the former civilization in rock art and limestone pillars that formed part of the cosmology of the Sun God Sugamuxi.
When Spanish conquistador Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada arrived in the valley in 1571, he ordered a church to be built on one of the Muisca’s sacred sites, and almost five centuries later, Our Lady of the Rosary Church adorns the town’s central square. With a rich tapestry of religious heritage, colonial architecture, and the hospitality of the locals, Tibasosa consistently makes the coveted “Most Beautiful in Boyacá” list.
Given its proximity to the departmental capital Tunja, some 60 km away, the town is not only popular with weekenders but also with serious hikers, wanting to explore the high-altitude wetlands – páramos – of Ocetá and Los Curies.
December 19, 1778, marked another pivotal moment in Tibasosa’s history, as Viceroy Manuel Antonio Flórez bestowed upon it the status of a town, ushering in an era of growth and prosperity. With the arrival of settlers from distant lands and distinguished Spanish families, Tibasosa flourished, its streets lined with colonial marvels and elegant balconies that stand as silent witnesses to its storied past.
Yet Tibasosa’s journey was also fraught with challenges, as it bravely joined the Movement Comunero of Socorro and San Gil in 1781, a pivotal uprising in Colombia’s quest for autonomy from Spain. The town’s resilience and unwavering support for the cause were immortalized in the annals of history, as brave souls like Inocencio Chincá sacrificed their lives for the independence struggle of Liberator Simón Bolívar.
Fast forward to the present day, Tibasosa enchants visitors not only with its historical allure but also with a culinary delight unlike any other – the feijoa. Amidst the whitewashed facades and murals celebrating its illustrious past, feijoa aficionados are treated to a cornucopia of delights, from luscious arequipes to tantalizing jams and cakes. But the pièce de résistance is undoubtedly the feijoa sabajón, a verdant elixir that packs a punch with its 14% potency, crafted from the finest fruits or infused with the essence of locally cultivated coffee.
In the bustling central plaza, vendors proudly display bundles of feijoa, inviting the curious to sample a unique array of sweets, syrups, and tartlets made from this fruit. Thriving in the crisp, temperate climate of Boyacá’s Valle de Iraka, feijoas have become synonymous with Tibasosa’s identity, heralding a new era of agricultural prosperity, since the first seeds were planted in the 1950s.
Then venture just a few blocks from the central plaza, and you’ll find yourself immersed in a walkable canvas where local artists have created vibrant murals in honor of the town’s most admired personalities, some more illustrious than others.
Included in the murals are all publicly elected mayors – the majority women – as this community takes pride in its matriarchs, as well as the most famous personage of all, Liberator Simón Bolívar who stayed in Tibasosa on March 30, 1820, after defeating the Spanish Royalist Army at the Battle of the Boyacá on August 7, 1819. The town is officially part of the Liberation Route – Ruta Liberatadora – that extends from the Eastern Plains to Colombia’s capital Bogotá.
Other highlights of a trip to Tibasosa must include a visit to the animal refuge and conservation area Guátika. The Guátika reserve is home to many of the country’s most endangered species that were rescued from animal traffckers and circuses. This bio-park perched along a slope overlooking the town has jaguars, pumas, ocelots, otters, Andean condors, tropical birds, tapirs, capybaras, among others, all housed in spacious enclosures and looked after by a staff of highly-trained veterinarians and biologists. The park charges an admission fee of COP$45,000 for adults, COP$40,000 for seniors or youngsters.
As the sun sets over Iraca’s earthly garden, and casting a golden glow on Tibasosa’s timeless streets, the town comes alive with the sounds of laughter and music. Join the locals in the plaza; where impromptu gatherings and lively festivals celebrate the joys of life in this idyllic corner of Colombia.
Whether you’re a seasoned feijoa enthusiast or curious traveler seeking to immerse yourselves in history and culture, Tibasosa beckons with open arms. So come, wander through its picturesque streets, savoring the flavors of the past and embracing the warmth of Boyacá hospitality. In Tibasosa, every moment is a journey through time, where the echoes of the past mingle with the promise of tomorrow, creating memories that will last a lifetime.
This article was made possible thanks to an invitation from the Secretaría de Turismo de Boyacá and Fontur. Local tourism operators Respira Turismo are experts in the region and can be contacted on IG @respiraturismo
