The climb from the boulder-encrusted field of farmer Luis Fernández to the base of a conical peak at 3,700 meters above sea level is a journey that promises both challenge and breathtaking beauty. This trek, which typically takes about two hours—give or take—depends on the speed of the hike and our determination to be immersed in the grandeur of the El Consuelo páramo.
As we start our ascent of 400 meters from the road that connects Bélen, Boyacá, with the appropriately named town of Páramo, the landscape begins to transform. The verdant green patchwork of farmland gradually dissipates with the first mist of the Andean cloud forest, creating an ethereal atmosphere. Nestled among the prickly shrubs and tall grass, delicate blue orchids sway gently, caressed by the cold wind of this high-altitude wetland. It’s a scene that feels almost otherworldly, a reminder of nature’s resilience and beauty.
At the first rest stop on the hike, my companions and I take a moment to catch our breath and absorb the scenery. The view is stunning, and the urge to capture the moment is irresistible. Cellphones in hand, we scan the landscape, snapping pictures and taking the obligatory selfie. A 10-minute break is all we’re afforded as the next part of the climb will include crossing a marsh and navigating some treacherous terrain. This section requires a steady foothold and close collaboration among our group.
Luis, our guide, seemed overly cautious with the group given that none of us are experienced hikers. However, his profound knowledge of the region and his experience growing up in the páramo instill a deep sense of confidence in us. His caution proves to be well-founded as we encounter the challenging terrain. As we climb to the highest parts of El Consuelo, we are accompanied by the silent sentinels of towering frailejón plants. These remarkable plants, some of which stand taller than a person, are unique to the high-altitude páramo ecosystems and add to the mystique of our journey.
Witnessing the immense groves of espeletia, some as old as 300 years, is one of the main attractions of El Consuelo and a highlight of our three-day excursion to the department of Boyacá. These plants, with their thick hollow stems and velvety-grey leaves, are a testament to the páramo’s ancient and unique biodiversity. It’s hard not to feel a sense of awe and respect for these silent giants that have stood the test of time in such a harsh environment.
El Consuelo acts as the natural frontier between the ancient Muisca and Guane peoples, and today marks the boundary between Boyacá and Santander—two very united, but very different departments. According to Luis, in the last fold of the mountain, with the craggy peak looming above us, the Muisca would trade with the Guane, exchanging goods and the legendary gold of “El Dorado.” The guide affirms that many burial sites and even a “lost city” exist within the páramo but have not yet been discovered by archaeologists.
As we begin or descend – that also takes two hours – we reflect on the rich history and natural beauty that we’ve encountered. The hike through El Consuelo is more than just a physical challenge; it’s a journey through time and otherwordly spaces. Whether you’re an experienced hiker or a curious traveler, this adventure offers a unique opportunity to connect with the land and its history. With every step, we feel more connected to the spirit of the páramo, and as we return to Don Luis’s home for cold refreshments, there’s a shared sense of accomplishment and wonder.
Exploring the El Consuelo páramo is a must for anyone visiting Boyacá. The region’s blend of natural beauty, rich history, and cultural significance makes it a truly unforgettable destination. Whether you’re captivated by the majestic landscapes, the ancient plants, or the stories of the Muisca and Guane peoples, El Consuelo offers an experience that will stay with you long after you’ve left its misty peaks.
The trip to El Consuelo was made possible thanks to an invitation by Fontur, the Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Tourism (MINCIT) and Secretary of Tourism of Boyacá.
To visit this incredible destination contact on IG: @kiwidelparamo and local tour operator @rociotuguianatural.
